As chef Malin Soderstrom opened the can, the trapped air escaped with a hiss and filled the balcony of her waterside restaurant with the pungent odour of Sweden's infamous delicacy, surstromming.

The surströmming season is back, and with it, a battle of taste buds. Ex-Londoner, Paul Connolly, and Skellefteå native, Akvelina Bergsten, share their vastly different opinions on the rather smelly ...