Speaking of muffins, Silverton does not endorse the supersize version we’ve come to expect: “What used to be a six-bite morning item turned into a 12-bite, all-day food.

Osteria Mozza’s focaccia di Recco—a cheesy, cracker-like bread. Photograph by Birch Thomas. While Osteria Mozza shares a name with Silverton’s Los Angeles restaurant, the menu also draws favorites ...